Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Best Burger in NYC Search: Social Eatz

Social Eatz

Social Eatz
232 53rd St. (between 2nd and 3rd Ave.)
(212) 207-3339
Burger: Bibimbap Burger ($13)

*Editor's note - this review was conducted just prior to the recent Social Eatz menu and decor makeover.

“Uneasy lies the head that wears a crown.” We don’t mean to get all Shakespearean on you, but it’s a fitting opening to portray the notoriety which accompanies an Eater.com “Best Burger in America” title. Chef Angelo Sosa, a two-time Top-Chef contestant and Jean-George protégé can point to his crowning achievement in burgerdom as a 2011 victory of Eater’s nationally held poll seeking the ultimate burger in all the land. Sosa and his Midtown spot, Social Eatz, sport a few burgers on the menu, from Traditional to Bulgogi with the famous Bibimbap in the middle. An “Asian-American” menu doesn’t exactly scream “find great burgers here!” but we can’t fight the masses nor resist the urge to weigh in on the Bibimbap Burger’s place in burger lore. Poetic, no?

Social Eatz Menu

Our Expectations: Bibimbap Burger. Proprietary all-natural beef, slow cooked egg, Korean pickles, and a bit of mayo-based sauce on a buttered brioche bun. The patty is, as our sources tell us, coated in Sriracha and griddled. Conventional it’s not, delicious it sounds.

The Burger

Bibimbap Burger

Meat: Structurally, the patty shined. Loosely formed on the inside and well-seared on the outside, juices flowed with each bite. That said, our medium rare temperature was noticeably overshot as the center was more pink than red and more firm than soft. Still, flavor profile exceeded our expectations as the tang of Sriracha was strong and savory. Combining with the aforementioned sear to deliver the definition of umami, we can easily endorse a Sriracha-cooked burger.

Bibimbap Burger

Toppings: We’re all for new, different, exciting and we love us some pickled veggies at our favorite Korean haunts, yet those that come with the burger reminded us more of salad than scrumptious. They’re somewhat drowned in sesame-oil and the helping is too heavy-handed. Additionally, the dose of mayo-based sauce is spread a little too thin to make a mark, yet its flavorful when found. Conversely, the slow-cooked egg is superb. Delicately garnished on top of the patty, the runny yolk is heavenly and the true champion of the toppings.

Bun: Buttery brioche is a typical choice for a larger patty, and for good reason. As demonstrated by the Bibimbap Burger, a 7-8 ounce patty needs support from a sturdy bun. We appreciate the accounting for size by Chef Sosa, as it’s far too often underestimated in our adventures in burger eating. One must prepare for a combination of uneven bites, sogginess created by accompanying juices, and the likely overwhelming heft of the patty. Chef Sosa’s brioche delivered in all areas of need in that regard while also contributing a buttery flavor bomb. Still, we were disappointed by an overly dry composition with a lack of soft and airy qualities. Flaking as we ate, freshness was questionable.

Bedlam’s Social Eatz Judgment

Meat (44): Solid structure and ideal sear but mostly overcooked. Though the Sriracha coated and griddled patty was quite flavorful nevertheless.

Toppings (20): Pickled veggies could’ve been executed better with a smaller portion and a little more subtlety using the sesame oil. Conversely, that egg, pure joy.

Bun (17): Points for size, composition, and buttered goodness but not enough to overcome a fairly porous, dry bun.

Ranking: 81 out of 100

Sunday, January 29, 2012

Best Burger in NYC Search: The Dutch

The Dutch
 
The Dutch 
131 Sullivan St.
(212) 677-6200 
Burger: $17

Sam Sifton’s restaurant of the year. Adam Platt’s best new restaurant of 2011. Eater.com’s restaurant of the year. Just a few of the accolades showered upon Andrew Carmellini’s All-American Soho eatery this past year. Along with hype comes demand, forcing hip New Yorkers to fight over reservations akin to Patrick Bateman’s obsessive tendencies in American Psycho – “A table at The Dutch? Saturday night? 8:30? No problem.” Diverging from his Italian cooking roots at A Voce and Locanda Verde, Mr. Carmellini’s collection of Michelin and James Beard awards lend credence to the notion that the man can do no wrong. And while patrons flock for the tiny fried oyster sandwich, chicken (smoked or fried) and scores of fresh pies made daily, the exuberant menu also includes a prolific patty known to many as one of the best burgers in NYC.

 Our Expectations

Burger. Cheddar. Orwasher’s Bun. Secret Sauce. Simple enough. More details include a 7 ounce patty from New York’s leading meat man, Pat LaFrieda, and a bun care of New York’s oldest artisan bakery – Orwasher's – all served only at brunch, lunch and late-night.

The Dutch Menu

The Burger

Meat: Extreme juiciness from a pleasantly plump patty, we’re never disappointed by a proprietary blend from Pat LaFrieda’s team. With texture screaming freshness and an exceedingly consistent char around every edge, it was a joy to consume. That said, points off for a slightly overdone medium rare…less rare and much more medium.

The Dutch Burger


Toppings: Placement was the name of the game. Secret sauce, slathered on the bottom half of the bun, was sublimely tangy while also yielding a touch of smokiness. Onions on top drove home the sweet factor with just enough firmness to not hinder our chewing. Conversely, the cheddar, also on top, wasn’t much of a standout while the odd bottom placement of the typical tomato had us scratching our collective heads.

The Dutch Burger


Bun: Orwasher's is known for their broad spectrum of artisanal breads, and flavor-wise, they delivered. Yet, we can’t place blame on them for what appeared to be a somewhat dry bun that lacked the power to withstand the immense juices of the patty. Additionally, as we mentioned in the toppings breakdown, the tomato and secret sauce are on the bottom half of the bun. There lies the problem. Add in sauce, tomato and resulting juices and the bottom half crumbles quickly. Result – top-heavy bun and soggy hand.

Bedlam’s The Dutch Judgment

Meat (48): Well-balanced and nearly unblemished. Temperature needed a tweak, but it’s hard to find many flaws in this patty.

Toppings (21): Questionable order of placement. Superior special sauce and excellent delivery of the onions. Underwhelming tomato and cheese.

Bun (19): Perfect flavor but dry. Solid ratio of bun to beef but not built strong enough to withstand the questionable toppings placement.

Ranking 88 out of 100